How Much Does It Cost To Finish Attic?
How Much Does it Cost to Finish & Convert an Attic? The average national cost for attic renovations is about $40,000, with a typical range of $4,600 to $80,000.
Finishing ranges from $4,600 to $16,400, while a more comprehensive remodel runs $8,000 to $80,000.
This translates into $30 to $200 per square foot, depending on the square footage of usable space, the amount of work and the materials used to bring the room to life.
A basic kitchen remodel includes removing and discarding old cabinets, installing new kitchen cabinets, installing or replacing flooring and regardless of the extent to which changes need to be done, installing a new ceiling, window and walls.
While it is generally a given that light colored paint on walls & ceilings gives the room a fresh feel and uplifts the woodwork, understanding what that changes in resale value will largely determine the gains gained when trying to sell your home.
If a homeowner has done a poor job keeping microwaves, appliances, chandeliers and other items in the same basic condition as when they moved in, the bathroom and kitchen will not gain much in value at resale.
Over time, such items will be removed from the space and the same will be true of the attic. Naturally, this is not a concern for potential buyers when homes are “older” than the home by a long shot.
As years roll by, however, fixtures, artwork, antiques and other items will continue to depreciate in value. When measuring, it is critical to be sure there are no juxtaposed windows to windows, doors, closets or light fixtures. In the vast majority of homes, windows are regularly grouped with doors.
Doing this will give a much more accurate measurement. For an attic remodel, it only makes sense to replace the stairs, the lower level ceiling and the attic upper level with similar materials.
It lessens the room’s resale value because people will not know a six-foot ceiling separated from a 9-foot wire shelf could possibly have a floor and ceiling of plaster.
This is because heat rises and cold air sinks, which makes the wood of the interior and exterior of the attic inevitable going up and down. Since the upper level is rarely used, except for seasonal storage in the attic, it does not make sense to remove electrical wiring.
In fact, I recommend having the electrical wiring located in the “dead-zone” or area that is below the attic floor. Only in cases of an clause or fuel oil spill, or in cases where local building codes specifically require all electrical connections to be in the “dead-zone” will electrical connections be visible from the attic floor.
There for the drywall compound will be missing or burned, leaving the insulation exposed due to moisture or temperature warping. The petroleum-based drywall will be rendered ineffective causing the framing to eventually rot. Once again, it will be a bad choice to even remove this insulation.
Another common technique in the attic finishing process is to double load the ceiling. This is an overkill that may be necessary in some cases, but it is important to note that some homes, particularly ties for mortgage loans, have attic rafters that rest on top of the ceiling joists due to non-standard construction practices.
For insurance purposes, it is best to avert any renovation performed to double load rafter framing. There are a lot of other steps related to insulation, insulation types, acoustical ceiling caps, etc.
To make the whole process easier, the homeowner should plan all the steps, from measurements to removal of light fixtures, prior to the work actually starts. Without the planning and organization, you could easily start tearing down the ceiling or removing insulation only to discover that the area where it was removed failed to dry prior to finishing the job.
This is usually caused by not caring giving proper respect to any insulation locations during its removal, keeping everything dry and in its place so new installation can be achieved.
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